Three Year Experiment

Fun, Frolicking and Frivolity

 

The title explains the gap in "blogtivity".
Nine days ago, we arrived in Hoi An.
Five days ago, we decided to treat ourselves to some swank at the Sunrise Resort.
Not much has transpired since. Sun, a little rain, beaches, swimming pools and Margaritas.
How shallow.
In the midst of this shameless lethargy, our start-up signed a deal with Microsoft and my beloved Liverpool FC showed early signs of greatness.
It's been wonderful.
Next stop: Ho Chi Minh City 
Population: 6.65 million (2008)
Number of motorbikes: approx. 3.1 million
Vroom.

-Alain

P.S. Boo (finally) posted a few piccies--a laborious endeavour given the poor Internet connection.

Shangri-La Days

Hoi An delights us. This elegant little town doesn't seem real. 

It is quite rightly a World Heritage Site. The Old Town's river-cuddling ancient tea houses, Japanese merchant buildings and Chinese temples, all of which are now home to charming restaurants, bars, shops and more, are truly eye-rubbing. A culinary Mecca and home to the best tailors on the planet, we feel like we're on yet another honeymoon. 

Surprisingly peaceful and harmonious (traffic is non existent compared to the veritable racetracks that comprise Hoi An's noisier counterparts), this little gem is essentially a happy accident. Had the Thu Bon River not silted up in the late 19th century, this idyllic gift may have been lost to the world.

Our accommodation--the Hoi An Pacific Hotel--is an absolute steal at thirty-seven USD for an evening's rest. The pool and gardens are perfect for lazy afternoons in the sun. The massages are delivered by Champions ($15 for 45 minutes, and worth every cent). The generously spacious rooms, equipped with marbled bathrooms courtesy of Marble Mountains (a place we're yet to visit) and just about everything else you need (including several football channels, much to Boo's delight) provide more than enough comfort. Its location is ideal, too, tucked in-between the Old Town and the beaches (our activity for today). With several free shuttle buses and complimentary bikes, our stay is complete.

Having been here barely 24 hours, and still sporting a somewhat silly (and permanent) giddy grin, we have only had time for one meal of note to date. I'm pleased to say that it lived up to reputation and expectation. The eyebrow-raising Morning Glory Street Food Restaurant served us the best Vietnamese culinary experience on our travels thus far. Local fare with a home-cooking twist, we dined on seafood and vegetables. The wine was thoroughly quaffable to boot. 

Happy times.

--Alain

Notes from a Rambler

In the inadequately translated words of a famous Arabic proverb: “The light falls only on the stranger”. How true. These words have been increasingly on my mind of late, as we venture along our travels through Vietnam.

I had no goals, expectations or preconceptions ahead of our journey.  My mind was open. It grows more open by the day. What I did know, and what is becoming increasingly apparent with each passing day is that we are doing the right thing in embarking on this adventure. Like so many others, I was treading water. Or to steal a few thoughts from the profound Joseph Campbell, I was spinning aimlessly on the wheel of life, as opposed to hopping off and spinning the wheel with my own hands. 

Motion enriches my soul. I see things that may have previously been lost with the mundaneness of routine. The smells seem to engage all my senses at the same time. Not only do I listen more attentively, I can actually hear. These are the gifts that travel provides.

Some people find comfort in establishing roots in one place. Frankly, this makes me miserable. There are roughly seven billion people on this planet across circa 200 countries (give or take). It is my intention to see as much as possible.

This is just the beginning.

--Alain

Halong Bay

 

Since our arrival to Vietnam eleven days ago, we have used Hanoi as a base to explore the North.  We have seen magnificent Sapa and the beautiful Halong Bay, both very different from each other and special in their own ways.

 

Halong Bay, was a place we wanted to see for a long time.  We had heard rumors of “bad trips”, but we had also read enough good reviews online to know our dream visit did exist.  Friends warned us that “Boats look great until you board them”, or worse, “You only get what you pay for, except the furry friends which come for free!”

 

We decided we had come this far, so why risk it?  We bit the bullet and booked a top end “junk boat.”  When you are a tourist, on vacation, you can justify any extra expenditure at any time, because your trip is generally short.  When you are traveling, for any real period of time, you have to justify everything. 

 

A few days before arrival, the whole area of Halong Bay was embraced in a typhoon, but lucky charm travel continued for us and the weather for our trip was simply lovely.  

 

For two nights and three days, we sailed by hundreds of gorgeous limestone rock formations jutting up from the waters and dotting the horizon.  We were in constant awe of our surroundings as we swam, kayaked thru caves and visited the small fishing villages that clinged to the coves.  Their colorful homes, floating on pontoons, were the only sign of life we saw for three whole days.

 

It is no wonder that this is a Unesco Heritage site.  For us, it goes to the top of the "most beautiful and unique places ever visited" list.  It was heaven.  (See our photos to the right)

 

Jasmine, our small "junk boat", was decorated in the old Indochine style. With only 22 rooms, you get a lot of space and privacy.  From time to time, you're even able to indulge yourself in the fantasy that you're out here on your own. We treated ourselves to a room with a private balcony but we spent little time enjoying it.  The other travelers we met aboard (Debby, Jeff, Dennette and Ross) were so fun and interesting, that we spent our time on deck socializing with them, taking in the beauty of the Bay together!

 

Our trip was all we had hoped for.  For a few short days we were more “tourists” than “travelers” and it was worth every dime.  Great food, 5 star service and a somewhat better wine list than we've seen so far, rounded out this once in a lifetime trip for us.  Once again we move on, asking ourselves if this will be the highlight of our trip?  But traveling means moving.  Next stop is Hue, the ancient Capitol of Vietnam.  The perfume river awaits!

Lucky Charms Travels

Sa Pa--pronounced "Sha pa"-- just south of the Chinese border, is nothing short of majestic. The magical landscape forced us to pinch ourselves on more than one occasion. To think that the Lancastrian expatriate tour operator--whom we met in a Ha Noi dive-bar--led us to believe that SaPa lacks physical beauty beggars belief. Perhaps there was an Asian 'Hostel' movie plot there after all (for those who have watched the Eli Roth-directed horror flick, the Brit in question tried to sell us a remote home-stay elsewhere, somewhere "far more beautiful and authentic"). Hmmmmmm....

Close call with grisly deaths aside, following the pleasingly palatable night-train from Hanoi, we were both delighted with what we saw upon arrival. Katmandu meets Brigadoon at the top of Vietnam. Terraced rice-field landscapes, sculpted over centuries of labour and love. A whimsical town not short of its own inimitable brand of excitement. Ethereal fogs and morning rainbows, which Boo, in her own, delightful brand of humour, likens to a Lucky Charms cereal box. The sunrises boggle the mind. Did I mention the views?

For textile junkies, trek-loving peeps and, frankly, anyone who appreciates beauty, this is truly utopia. The local ever-present tribeswomen, from the Hmong to the Dao (Yao), are wonderful: full of spirit, courage and a playfully innocent sense of humour that is sorely lacking in much of today's "developed" lands. Equipped with a standard toolkit of sales banter, we found them to be a constant source of fun. "What your name?" "Where you from?" "You buy from me later--pinky promise?" All good, clean entertainment if received with an open heart. We both feel truly lucky to have experienced this wonderful spot and having met equally wonderful people--particularly the women.

Food-wise, it hasn't represented the highlight of our trip to date. However, we discovered a like-bellied eatery in Sapa Rooms--a tasteful boutique hotel decorated in the region's artistic gems which offers affordable Vietnamese and Western fare with sweet and humble service that only Asia can offer. 

Our accommodation--the Thuy Family Guesthouse--is charming. Managed with grace and professionalism by Beet (spelling unknown), the views of Fanzipan Mountain, Sapa hillside and those unbelievable rice-fields, are worth the trip alone. Breakfast is served in what feels like a treehouse in the sky (Sa Pa, the town, lies at an altitude of 1650 metres). Noodle soups, delicious fruit and pancakes represent the highlights of the morning's fare. A local specialty is the ginger tea with Sa Pa honey--blimey...it made me a feel a far better person than I am. The rooms are clean, the much-needed laundry service is efficient, and those views...all for $18 a night--not too shabby. On the subject of drink, for the most part, stay a country mile away from all wine, whether it's the local plonk or the inevitably-cooked Bordeaux's and cheap Aussie imports--it's all dreadful and predictably overpriced. However, the beers, teas, coffees and smoothies are plentiful and well worth your bucks.

Now onto the next leg of our trip. A little luxury onboard a 1930's-style Indochina "junk" boat (if ever there was a misnomer) touring beautiful Halong Bay. I feel like I am seven-years old again, entering Main Street, DisneyWorld, for the first time.  I should feel guilty, but I don't:)

--Alain

Magnificent Sapa!

Our photos from Sapa have been loaded on to our blog. What a beautiful place!

Beautiful Hoan Kiem Lake, with it's red wooden bridge in Hanoi.

Hello Hanoi!

We flew EVA air from JFK-Taipei-Hanoi and lucky us!  The flight was only half full.  The airline was so good--clean, spacious, friendly--even the food was delicious.  As great as the trip was though, it didn't help us to escape the jet lag.  We are still experiencing it, but since we both have it, we are simply sleeping when we feel tired and up and about when we don't.  

We have both spent enough time in SE Asia, that Vietnam didn't seem entirely "new" to us...having said that, there are some things to note about Hanoi which are different than any other place we've been to. The biggest shocker has been the heavy motorcycle traffic.  It is unbelievable!  The city has a population of over 6 million residents, so who knows how many motor bikes are on the street? They weave together and apart, speeding and honking while they race toward you.  In addition, as many bikes as there are on the street, there are a ton more parked on the sidewalk.  This makes getting around by foot...challenging.  Hanoi is not a city for people who enjoy walking around aimlessly.  Walking takes complete concentration--especially when dealing with jet lag!

So, if you can't beat 'em...join 'em.  We hired a pedicab.  It was the best way to travel thru Hanoi.  What was first intimidating and unenjoyable became instantly easy--even romantic.  Pedi-cabs are slow, so you can sit back and watch the hustle and bustle breathe around you as you take it all in.  It is a hassle free way to wander and explore until you find the cafe or restaurant you have read about...

The food here is delicious!  The diversity of dishes are far greater than what is on offer in the West. We have always loved Vietnamese food, but we knew there was more to it than Pho.  We were right!  Our first meal was "Cha ca" a table top prepped dish, comprised of various herbs and green onions, sauteed with a double head snake fish.  A brave first dish indeed--and so delicious!  Alain has made a list of restaurants and dishes to try while traveling--sort of like a bucket list for foodies.  So far, so good!

In short, Hanoi is a beautiful city, even in the rain.  The people are beautiful, kind, always smiling...the quilt of architecture from old and worn to new and bright keeps our eyes moving and our wonder alive.  We are not here much longer...soon it will be time to take the night train North to Sapa.  We will trek through the countryside and stay with families from the Hill Tribe communities.  No internet, no cell phone coverage, no ATM, no contact.

Ahhh, can't wait!

--rsm