Shangri-La Days

Hoi An delights us. This elegant little town doesn't seem real.

It is quite rightly a World Heritage Site. The Old Town's river-cuddling ancient tea houses, Japanese merchant buildings and Chinese temples, all of which are now home to charming restaurants, bars, shops and more, are truly eye-rubbing. A culinary Mecca and home to the best tailors on the planet, we feel like we're on yet another honeymoon.

Surprisingly peaceful and harmonious (traffic is non existent compared to the veritable racetracks that comprise Hoi An's noisier counterparts), this little gem is essentially a happy accident. Had the Thu Bon River not silted up in the late 19th century, this idyllic gift may have been lost to the world.

Our accommodation--the Hoi An Pacific Hotel--is an absolute steal at thirty-seven USD for an evening's rest. The pool and gardens are perfect for lazy afternoons in the sun. The massages are delivered by Champions ($15 for 45 minutes, and worth every cent). The generously spacious rooms, equipped with marbled bathrooms courtesy of Marble Mountains (a place we're yet to visit) and just about everything else you need (including several football channels, much to Boo's delight) provide more than enough comfort. Its location is ideal, too, tucked in-between the Old Town and the beaches (our activity for today). With several free shuttle buses and complimentary bikes, our stay is complete.

Having been here barely 24 hours, and still sporting a somewhat silly (and permanent) giddy grin, we have only had time for one meal of note to date. I'm pleased to say that it lived up to reputation and expectation. The eyebrow-raising Morning Glory Street Food Restaurant served us the best Vietnamese culinary experience on our travels thus far. Local fare with a home-cooking twist, we dined on seafood and vegetables. The wine was thoroughly quaffable to boot.

Happy times.

--Alain