Imagine transporting the island of Koh Phan Ngan by helicopter and dropping it into a lush mountainous valley in the North of Thailand. Then add a healthy dollop of charm, a smidgen of Japanese material culture and you have Pai.
Pai (pronounced Pie), in Thailand's Mae Hong Song Province, is a short drive from the Myanmar border. Its population of 2,000 very chilled inhabitants is the perfect escape for an aging Bohemian or just about anyone who appreciates beauty, crafts, good food and doesn't get their knickers in a twist over hippies.
As I fit the aforementioned criteria rather well (apart from the aging Bohemian bit of course), I love this place. It certainly merits the stomach-churning drive from Chiang Mai; due to which, we were unable to fully appreciate the magnificent scenery along three cacophonous hours of twists and turns.
Upon arrival in downtown Pai, we ventured to the closest eatery to settle our bellies. What we thought was beginners luck--our vegetable green curry and Thai tuna salad were on the money--has transpired to be the norm. Pai is bulging with great places to scoff the local fare. Wood, corrugated metal and bamboo constructions sit in unison with street-based trollies and tables, all rustling up a myriad culinary eats and drinks. A highlight for me is a street tea-trolley serving local hot and cold brews from green bamboo tubes. Re-use the tube and your slurp is 10 baht (circa 30 cents). My choice is spicy ginger, delivered by a skillful vendor whose attire is better suited to the most of "colourful" of raves. In Pai however, he blends in seamlessly.
Our shelter, gaff number 14, is a short motorbike ride from the town centre. Set in beautiful gardens with an embarrassing riches of flora, elegant cabins and a nicely integrated pool overlooking Pai River, it is an oasis within an oasis.
Aside from the town centre, and it's plentiful offering of tangible and intangible flair, the real fun in Pai lies in its rural charms. Elephant treks, flying creatures galore, hiking trails and hot springs increase the chill factor a few notches. We have one more day left in our current home. Pad number 15 in town awaits, followed by yet more R&R in a hot springs resort. After that, we'll see.
I don't want to leave, yet.
-Alain