Three Year Experiment

A Slice of Pai

 

Imagine transporting the island of Koh Phan Ngan by helicopter and dropping it into a lush mountainous valley in the North of Thailand. Then add a healthy dollop of charm, a smidgen of Japanese material culture and you have Pai.

Pai (pronounced Pie), in Thailand's Mae Hong Song Province, is a short drive from the Myanmar border. Its population of 2,000 very chilled inhabitants is the perfect escape for an aging Bohemian or just about anyone who appreciates beauty, crafts, good food and doesn't get their knickers in a twist over hippies.

As I fit the aforementioned criteria rather well (apart from the aging Bohemian bit of course), I love this place. It certainly merits the stomach-churning drive from Chiang Mai; due to which, we were unable to fully appreciate the magnificent scenery along three cacophonous hours of twists and turns.

Upon arrival in downtown Pai, we ventured to the closest eatery to settle our bellies. What we thought was beginners luck--our vegetable green curry and Thai tuna salad were on the money--has transpired to be the norm. Pai is bulging with great places to scoff the local fare. Wood, corrugated metal and bamboo constructions sit in unison with street-based trollies and tables, all rustling up a myriad culinary eats and drinks. A highlight for me is a street tea-trolley serving local hot and cold brews from green bamboo tubes. Re-use the tube and your slurp is 10 baht (circa 30 cents). My choice is spicy ginger, delivered by a skillful vendor whose attire is better suited to the most of "colourful" of raves. In Pai however, he blends in seamlessly.

Our shelter, gaff number 14, is a short motorbike ride from the town centre. Set in beautiful gardens with an embarrassing riches of flora, elegant cabins and a nicely integrated pool overlooking Pai River, it is an oasis within an oasis.

Aside from the town centre, and it's plentiful offering of tangible and intangible flair, the real fun in Pai lies in its rural charms. Elephant treks, flying creatures galore, hiking trails and hot springs increase the chill factor a few notches. We have one more day left in our current home. Pad number 15 in town awaits, followed by yet more R&R in a hot springs resort. After that, we'll see.

I don't want to leave, yet.

-Alain   

 

The poetry of life. Over 12 years later, and she still loves me...

In the immortal words of Billy Connolly, "I'm shocked and stunned." It is over 12 years from the day I first met Boo on that (at-the-time) idyllic beach in Koh Phan Ngan. 

Last Christmas, we took a trip back to the scene of the crime to find "our beach" had been transformed into a vertically integrated concrete monstrosity of 7-11s, pharmacies and British ravers. How times change. How people change. The beauty we remember is still there however. 

Aside from the physical charms of Thailand's southern islands, there is no greater expression of that beauty than in the brief encounters we had with the island's indigenous population. Even the most narrow-hearted would forgive the local people for being a little jaded. As disrespectful and thoughtless many of the more recent (youthful) tourists are (the guests really ought to pick up after themselves), the random acts of kindness from the local Thai people never ceases to amaze me. 

One experience will remain forever etched in our memories and hearts. On our first night back to that beach, we rather foolishly found ourselves stuck in the middle of a very slippery one-mile stretch of rocks. With the tide rapidly approaching, to say the situation was precarious would be understating our predicament. Being the stronger swimmer, my only answer at the time was to take Boo under my arm and hope I didn't drown the two of us. Navigating the rocks was a non-starter--a situation exacerbated by a mild bout of gout. Then, out of nowhere, a Thai family of four appeared. For the next 30 minutes we were carefully guided by hand over the treacherous terrain. At the end of this somewhat surreal experience, before we even had a chance to thank them, our Thai angels had vanished into the sunset.

It was this trip that inspired our current adventure. Over 12 years on, we both love Thailand more than ever. I love my wife more than ever. Perhaps the greatest miracle of all is that my long-suffering wife still loves me. 

How poetic.

-Alain

And meanwhile, in Chiang Mai...

What is it about this city, nestled into the north of Thailand, that keeps calling me back?  My first visit here was right after grad school.  I came here on a cheap flight as an air courier, with a quick stop over in Tokyo.  I had heard so much about the city's night market, that I didn't even bother to stop in Bangkok first.  I went directly to Chiang Mai.

I was as struck then by the creative force of the people who live here, as I am today.  By day I walk along the streets of the city, dripping with sweat as I carouse the textile markets and craft studios.  

I'm amazed what they can do with bamboo.  It's a buzz with inspiration, imagination and perspiration. Chiang Mai is inspired and inspiring.  I want to dig deeper and meet the makers of these beautiful crafts.  I am constantly looking for anyone who may share their contacts with me.  I feel like I'm hunting.

There are shadows of the old city everywhere.  Stupas, Wats, old city walls...there is even a moat!  

The new Chiang Mai seems to be rising like a Phoenix on top of all of this history.  It is bursting with a creative vibe whose beat will not slow down.  Chiang Mai is on fire!

We arrived here a week ago.  We thought by now we would not only know where we wanted to live, but also which flat we wanted to make our home.  Hmmmmm.  We got the first part right.  We know what part of the city is right for us (near the night market) and we've even found two condo buildings we love (Twin Peaks & Peaks Garden) but we can't find an available apartment in the building!  We will keep trying.  In the mean time, there is too much to do and enjoy.

Walking thru town we have stumbled across the most beautiful and historically significant pieces of architecture.  There are over 300 Buddhist temples in Chiang Mai.  Some old and some new, all amazing.  Wat Chiang Man is the oldest and was built in the 13th century.  

King Mengrai lived here during the construction of the city.  

 

The Naga on either side of the steps are mythical snakes which are said to be the source of the Ping River here.  

 

In any case, you can ponder the beauty of this site for hours.  Monks come and go.  It is still a place of worship and is open to anyone.

Besides being open to people, it is open to all life; animal and mythical!

The food in Chiang Mai is typical Thai; delicious!  We eat less and less like tourists now and more and more where the Thai people eat.  These simple humble eateries, often located under large tented areas on the sides of streets cook some of the best food I've ever tasted.

Language continues to be a trip, but in the "land of a 1000 smiles" you're always appreciated for the effort.  You greet everyone with "Sawadee-kaa" if you're female and "Sawadee-kup" if you're a man. You say this while you hold your hands together as in prayer and bow slightly.  Since it always sounds like I am saying "sweaty-car" I giggle too.  Still, a smile goes a long way here and is almost always reciprocated.  The Thai people are full of grace.  

So, though we have so far struck out in finding the perfect pad, we have had our small victories.  
We have had great weather and even better health!

We are learning our way around without a G-P-S (we have an M-A-P instead)!
We found a woman named Tip, who makes the best fresh fruit smoothies!

We found the movie theater and after managing to confuse everyone we got tickets!

Travel has become like a vitamin to my spirit.  It has coaxed me from my comfort zone and challenged my spirit to awaken.   It isn't always easy and I'm not always getting what I want, (like an apartment!) but I am getting the adventure I signed up for.   :)

--boo

Thailand Loves Doggies (and we love Thailand)

 

Our furry (and sometimes hairy) friends are revered in Thailand. Quite right too. This comforting thought provides further validation that Thailand is the right Southeast Asian country for us.

In our regional experiences to date, Thailand is unique. Its people are genuinely warm, open and gentle. It is this kindness of heart that first drew us to this beautiful country. 

Aside from the occasional coup:), Thailand has enjoyed a peaceful existence. This lies in stark contrast to some of its less fortunate (and in turn less happy) neighbours. Its cheerier history may partly explain why Thai people express Sanuk so magnificently (loosely defined, Sanuk is to embark on life with a sunny disposition). 

For me, doggies radiate Sanuk, unless they live in countries where they are seen as an expensive delicacy versus one of life's miracles.

Remaining on the subject of furry "people" (I am excluding myself from this classification): there are all kinds of dogs in Thailand. Big ones. Small ones. White ones. Brown ones. I've also come across the occasional red and yellow one. Mutts and bitches. Doggies with homes. Doggies without homes. Ladies and "ladyboys". Regardless of breed, gender or colour, they are all connected through Sanuk.

Perhaps we can all learn a thing or two from our more spiritually evolved companions.

-Alain